SURFING MASTERS: WAVE KNOWLEDGE
Systematization of the knowledge of relevant signals in evaluating the surf zone:
Proficiency in positioning in the surf zone lineup and in wave catching
Keywords: Safety, Coastal Currents, Surf, Systematics, Wave...
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SURFING MASTERS: WAVE KNOWLEDGE
Systematization of the knowledge of relevant signals in evaluating the surf zone:
Proficiency in positioning in the surf zone lineup and in wave catching
Keywords: Safety, Coastal Currents, Surf, Systematics, Wave Knowledge, Lineup, Patterns. Abstract: Regarding the beach safety of surf zone users, this study aims to systematize the “Wave Knowledge” of the most efficient lifeguards, the surfing masters.by classifying the indicators relevant for recognizing spacial and temporal patterns and risk factors. This is evidenced by the proficiency in motor tasks essential both to the sport and rescuing in the surf zone: positioning in the lineup, catching waves/ returning to shore (when “Wave judgement” is needed). We start by reviewing the literature from Surf Sciences, followed by an analysis of manuals...
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