Decanter

6 8 | I t a l y 2 0 1 2 • D E C A N T E R D E C A N T E R • I t a l y 2 0 1 2 | 6 9 FRIULI ON A MILD November day, I’m driving up a curvy road in the Carso hills through a blaze of autumn colour. Alvaro Pecorari, owner of Lis Neris winery, is taking... More

6 8 | I t a l y 2 0 1 2 • D E C A N T E R D E C A N T E R • I t a l y 2 0 1 2 | 6 9 FRIULI ON A MILD November day, I’m driving up a curvy road in the Carso hills through a blaze of autumn colour. Alvaro Pecorari, owner of Lis Neris winery, is taking me to a high vantage point that was strategic in both world wars. The city of Gorizia is to the right, with the Slovenian mountains behind. In the centre are the Collio hills, with the Colli Orientali beyond them. To the left, the land stretches as far as the eye can see to the Adriatic. The entire foreground of this picture is occupied by the Isonzo river valley, with the river below us as it winds from the Julian Alps in Slovenia to the sea near Monfalcone. The valley is vast, flat and agricultural. Below, the vineyards are turning from green to gold. I’m in Friuli to concentrate on two grapes, Pinot Grigio and Friulano (known, until recently, as Tocai), and on two production areas, Isonzo and the Colli Less